The Color of Yearning
Megan Eaves follows the Turquoise Trail in her homeland, New Mexico, and uncovers challenging histories, a sense of self, and deep time
Megan Eaves is a freelance journalist, editor, content pro, comms manager and dark-sky advocate. She formerly served as Lonely Planet's North and Central Asia Destination Editor and is now the editor of Nightscape (the magazine of DarkSky International) and Visit Uzbekistan Magazine.
Her work appears in the BBC, The Times, The Independent, Lonely Planet, CNN, Metro, AFAR, Culture Trip, South China Morning Post, TimeOut, Travel Weekly and others. She has written Lonely Planet guidebooks to China, South Korea, Tibet and London and edited dozens more, as well as DK guides to China, Shanghai, Beijing and Florida, and the Insider's Guide to El Paso. She has strong regional specialisations in China, Central Asia, the former Soviet Union and the Southwest USA, and also regularly covers astronomy, dark skies, space, conservation, sustainability, the environment, the outdoors and beer.
http://www.meganeaves.com
Megan Eaves follows the Turquoise Trail in her homeland, New Mexico, and uncovers challenging histories, a sense of self, and deep time
"They are moving at Crossing Six! Hang on!" William shouts. He shunts the radio back into its receiver and revs the engine of our open-air safari 4x4. Uh oh , I think, glancing down at the metal cup in my hands.
The first time I saw the night sky above Northumberland, I was walking across England on Hadrian's Wall National Trail. I had followed it through Cumbria to Gilsland, where the River Irthing marks the border of Northumberland and the southern end of the national park.
Getting away from city lights to sleep under a glimmering night sky can be a transformative experience-few settings offer such a moving reminder of Earth's infinitesimal place in our universe. Since 1988, the Tucson, Arizona-based International Dark-Sky Association (IDA) has worked to certify and protect night skies around the world from light pollution by implementing controls and regulations that preserve the natural nighttime environment.
At the top of Mount Kokhta, there is silence. The quiet is broken by a sharp, frigid breeze, but otherwise, the stillness is absolute. I stare across a valley ringed by snow-topped mountains. Spruce forests rise partway up, leaving the peaks frosted like cakes. Then, in a sudden rush, I'm off.
The world's first and most secretive space base, Baikonur Cosmodrome, sits in the middle of a vast Central Asian desert, 2,600km south-east of Moscow and 1,300km from Kazakhstan's two main cities, Nur-Sultan and Almaty. It was from this remote part of the western steppe in 1957 that the Soviet Union successfully launched the first artificial satellite - Sputnik 1 - into orbit around Earth.
Uzbekistan is a beguiling mix of cultures, landscapes and architecture. Here's our guide to what to do, where to stay and why you'll love it.
Anji in Zhejiang province, in whose bamboo groves Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon was filmed, was the small town that led Megan Eaves to fall in love with China when she taught English there in 2006, she recalls.
The sun daubs the sky hot pink and orange over a row of small, undulating mountains, a few puffy white clouds reflecting the palette like a perfect desert painting. Between me and the hills are wide-open pastures of grama grass and chamisa bushes tinted green from recent rain, spindly-armed cholla cactus and fat juniper trees, their 400-year-old branches turning inky in the fading southwest light.
One of the world's most vast and ancient civilizations, China is not just one region, cuisine or culture. It's a giant and complex patchwork of cultural groups, histories, cuisines and languages. As you might expect, there's a lot to see.